What we do

The work itself

The problem pages on this site are written from what you notice. These are written from what a technician actually does about it — in the order it gets done, cheapest cause first, with the expensive answer at the bottom where it usually belongs.

What a repair
usually costs.

A useful rule: weigh the repair against what the appliance would cost to replace in the same opening. On a freestanding unit that is a straightforward comparison. On a built-in or a column it is not, because the replacement has to match the cabinetry, and that is why sealed-system work on those types is still normally worth doing.

Diagnostic visit: OWNER TO CONFIRM the service-call fee and whether it is credited against the repair.
Read the full cost guide
RepairRelative costNotes
Door gasket or alignment lowest Often the cheapest job on the list, and frequently the real cause of a much more expensive-sounding symptom.
Defrost heater, thermostat or sensor low The usual answer when frost has built up and the fresh-food side has drifted warm.
Evaporator or condenser fan low Common, quick, and the reason a freezer can be cold while the refrigerator is not.
Water inlet valve or line low Covers most no-water and no-ice calls once the filter and the shut-off have been ruled out.
Defrost drain clearing low The sheet of ice under the bottom drawer, before it becomes water on the kitchen floor.
Ice maker assembly moderate Replaced as a module rather than rebuilt on nearly every current design.
Control board moderate Priced against the model, and on built-in units the part is the majority of the cost.
Compressor or sealed system highest The one repair where the decision is genuinely open, and where the type of appliance decides it.
Maintenance visit lowest Not a repair. The visit that prevents the largest share of the ones above it.

Not a refrigerator? Each of these is its own appliance, and has a site of its own.

(111) 111-1111 Schedule a repair